Glenfarclas Family Reserve 20 Year Old, 1999, 46%

There’s a fair amount going on here, but the fruit gives it an approachable centre. Stewed apples and medlars sit alongside fruit loaf and sultanas on the nose, with custard and toffee adding sweetness to the malty, oaky character. The wet-straw farmyard note and earthy touch make it less straightforward than a purely fruit-led whisky. That complexity appeals to me, though it may not be what everyone wants from an easygoing dram. On the palate, sweet fruit comes first, followed by dusty spices that contrast with its crisp, lively character. The long finish turns slightly astringent before settling into custardy notes. I’d favour the mix of fruit and richer notes, while recognising that the earthiness and astringency could give some drinkers pause.